Monday, October 20, 2008

Ta Gong - Tibet
Text by: gregory burns . . .Photos by: angie tan (all rights reserved)
Three bumpy days drive from Chengdu (China) and we finally stop in Ta Gong. At 3700 meters, one can be excused if breathless after 100 paces. And with mostly local Tibetans in this tiny town surrounding the Monastery, one can forgive the place for not having internet. But what it lacks in oxygen and modernity, the place more than makes up for with its culture and natural beauty.
This is the place God invented clouds which tower over the five holy mountains that ring this village. We watch mesmerized as the green pastures beam bright green then muted olive as the sun plays hide and seek behind giant cumulous clouds. In the distance, a young girl armed with a few rocks and twigs corals and persuades a dozen frisky yaks to head home across the cold rushing river. A burgundy wrapped monk makes his way high up the mountainside towards the bountiful strands of prayer flags fluttering in the evening breeze. On the single main street lined with little provision shops, a few pool halls and restaurants, the local boys and monks ride their motorcycles and buy apples from ladies with bulging sacks of fruit. Around the Monastery devoted Tibetans circumambulate and spin the many prayer wheels. Mangy dogs sleep wherever, covered with years of life without a brushing.


Ancient wrinkled men and women with wooden faces and hands head home after a long day walking, talking, collecting firewood and praying. This is the Tibetan Autonomous region and is thick with Tibetans and lean on Han Chinese except the dozens of police vehicles and goods trucks passing through town keeping everything stable and under control.



Beijing Games 2008
Text by: gregory burns
Photos by: angie tan - all rights reserved

In celebration of the 2008 Olympic and Paralympic Games in Beijing, I felt it fitting to produce a series of paintings that salute the athletes and their efforts.
The series seeks to capture and encapsulate the essence of the athletic experience in individual and team sports. I put forth these paintings in a parallel effort with all the athletes who push their limits during the summer of 2008. For over a month we are ensconced in the Beijing Games. The first course is of course the Olympics, which go off without a hitch.
Rave reviews for everything from the opening ceremonies to the venues. Creating modern iconic structures such as the Cube and the Bird’s Nest juxtaposed with the Forbidden City lying on the same meridian line directly south of the Olympic Green, China has produced a new legacy that goes beyond sports.

The country has showcased its determination to succeed. The Olympics gave us numerous world records, but only one eight-medal sweep by Michael Phelps.
With strikingly few doping offences, happily the Games clawed back some of their original Olympic luster.
In no way less exciting were the Paralympic Games, where hundreds of world records also fell as did athletes in contact sports such as murder ball and wheelchair basketball.
Spectators and China suddenly realized that the disabled can be heroes. With daily extensive TV coverage on multiple channels, an entire nation (a quarter of the world’s population) has been primed to see people with disabilities in an entirely new and inspiring light.











Sitting in a small Beijing restaurant, we listened as workers spoke with genuine respect and pride about their fellow country men competing in the pool without arms. With President Hu Jin Tao in attendance at the opening and closing for both Games, the post Sichuan earthquake China is one where Head’s of State are connected with the people. Impressive as the Games and positive messaging has been, one only hopes that China, which the West once demonized, will continue to show itself as a truly caring and capable community. The Games have opened a door for a new China.











Monday, July 07, 2008


Moroccan Medley Text by: gregory burns Photos by: angie tan - All rights reserved

We transit from Singapore at Dubai en-route to Casablanca. The packed international airport like Disneyland for a United Nations of shoppers and
it’s barely six in the morning. Women wrapped from head to toe wearing Christian Dior bumblebee sunglasses browse for gold and electronic goods.

Landing into a toasted Casablanca we transit to the train that will take us north to Marrakech.
Not knowing any better, we take 2nd class seats for the 3 hours of roasting across a parched and barren landscape of scrubby cactus pocked with walled Kasbahs. The country feels like a cross between Mexico and France with its pink-tan stucco walls and ‘sortie’ signs. A thankful breeze occasionally interrupts the punishing sun, which broils all below the sheltering sky.

Dehydrated but jubilant we arrive in Marrakech and begin our stay at the Angsana Riads in the Medina. The friendly shopkeepers and neighborhood children do not fit the guarded descriptions we expected from our guidebook.
We feel welcomed and at home wandering the maze of alleyways carved between pastel colored buildings.

High walls and decorative doors protecting inner sanctuaries from harsh sunlight and outsiders while an army of cats keep all rats at bay.

part 2

Angie and I survey six Riads in the Angsana Collection and find each unique and appealing. The word ‘Riad’ means “inside garden” or “courtyard” which traditionally must include the elements of water and foliage.

The configurations of these inner courts, surrounded by walls and rooms create intimate cocoons where we feel at ease and cloistered yet connected to nature with the open sky above filled with azure blues, chirping birds and twinkling stars at night. The Riad is a contained swatch of nature where humans connect with the earth and themselves.


The narrow alleyways that squirrel between and connect these enclosed compounds are a labyrinth easily to be lost in. Peach, pink, ochre and mauve walls jut up all around you as bicycles; donkey carts and humans vie for a section of path to navigate home on.

Everything is intimate. In the Medina one is confronted with sensory overload until you open the unique and intricate door to your courtyard and leave all of that behind.

Recharging inside for tomorrow’s next onslaught.


We have been given Riad Dar Zaouia for my painting studio. Blessed with an open-air courtyard in which to paint, I begin to make sense of the dozens of sketches I have created in our first few weeks scrambling around. I try to connect with this feeling of protection, which the Riads provide, juxtaposed to the somewhat controlled mayhem of that which is outside the door.

Doors and walls figure prominently in this discourse. Each offering a lifetime of experiences as the river of humanity ebbs and flows throughout.


While I paint this internal world, Angie photographs the spectrum of life that abounds beyond the portals.

We are up at dawn to see the kittens nipping at the plastic bags of garbage left outside each door.

Angie looks for the light as it paints the walls with earth tones and pastel pinks. Respectful not to photograph locals unless given permission, she focuses the cornucopia of life that swirls around us.

Looking down from roof gardens, like a loving sniper she shoots the exotic costumes and commerce of those in Jemaa El Fna- a market of trade with seductive merchants.

We have seen both sides of these emotional people with their hand holding and warm embraces. The codling of children and respect for cats warms the heart and yet without notice, a conversation between a mother and son or boy and girl can turn into a slap up with wailing and shouting. We see there is equal passion for connecting and rejecting.

Venturing out of the Medina we finally head towards the dessert to see sand. Lots of hot sand and a few patches of green. The green oasis spots cling to any minor water source.

The lifeblood leached from a begrudging sandy plain in order to color the landscape with olive and ochre. Around these lush spaces are stone homes of mud and sand. Eking a living from the land the Berber natives live with this blast furnace of an environment, which we tourists stumble through in a heated daze.


I am fascinated with the sanctuary of the oasis. Surrounded by nothing but baked scorched sand. Like the Riad these compounds provide shelter and a retreat from heat and dessert harshness.

We ride camels and reach our Berber tents before sunset and just in time do experience a real live sand storm. Minute graduals blanket everything and even make their way into every tooth and zipper. At 10pm we turn in but it is still 40 degrees Celsius and the wind has died and we are not far behind. We languish on mats outside our tents but can’t sleep in this endless dessert oven.

Having eaten enough Sahara sand, we return to Marrakech to hold my exhibition at the Riad Si Said.

To showcase the series, Angie orchestrates the paintings to greet guests at the Riad's entrance and then punctuates a pathway to the rooftop where the body of paintings looks remarkable set off by the pastel colored walls and traditional carpets of the terrace.

Our season here draws to a close. We prepare to depart this oasis in the dessert full of colors and images that combine a relaxed form of Islam with encroaching modernity.

Our senses filled to overflowing we leave laden with photos and paintings that hopefully attest to the dynamic mix of old and new, man and nature, God and all that lies below heaven and the sheltering sky.

Sunday, June 01, 2008

The Temples of Shaolin

Text & Photos by Gregory Burns (all rights reserved)


Though the ancient structures were impressive, I felt frustrated Visiting Shaolin Temple. I had hoped to meditate with the monks and paint them while they practiced their martial arts.
Instead, I was overwhelmed by the commercialization of the place and the realization that the kung fu they still do is usually for international promotion tours or movie directors. For centuries, rulers of China have tried to subdue the powerful Temple with its famous martial arts monks. This was never an easy task and the Temple maintained its religious principals and military prowess. Today however, the Temple threatens nobody. Instead, it is permitted to rake in hundreds of millions of Yuan a year, tithing a good chunk to the local government. But what I did find satisfactory in the Shaolin area were the 72 other temples that are more peaceful and natural, lacking the tour groups with red hats and little flags.
Yong Tai Temple, the oldest nunnery in the region, is a contemplative place with female martial arts students and vegetarian meals. It has few guests but lots of years. Finding a quiet corner to sketch I was able to sink into the sanctity that is why we go to temples. For the next few days I toured around other temples offering up the ancient China that fuels my connection with that which has weathered time and adversity. The Shaolin area has developed a major industry teaching classes in martial arts. Though I did not have to enroll I was allowed to sketch and paint several authentic practitioners while performing their routines. I chose to capture their dramatic gestures and postures while trying to express inner strength and poise. While they practiced kung-fu, I did mine, hoping the spirit of the spaces and movements would fill my pages with energy.
Later, the monk who was showing me around posed for several hours as I man-handled a 5x20foot canvas, rolling it out and painting it on the ground below a 1,500 year old stupa. After I had finished painting and laughing with the locals, the 70 year old caretaker of the compound kindly invited me to stay with him in the Guan Yin temple which doubled as his home. Recalling the toilet at my cheap hotel which kept unseating every time I used it, I would have happily accepted had I been staying on. But it was time to return to the bustling city of Shanghai where temples and monks are hard to find and one rarely hears the rustling of leaves in the trees and the sounds of happy birds.

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Hwang Shan Again
Text & Photos by Gregory Burns (all rights reserved)

In a Buick through a tunnel I go back in time to a mountain I climbed half a life ago. Hwang Shan, in China’s Anhui Province, waits at the end of the freeway as I return to a spot where I struggled to become a whole person after loosing love and innocence. A time of fog and stone stairs leading I knew not where but only up more into the clouds where the peaks poked out. Now the bamboo leans off the mountain towards me as a different man returns to see and paint stone. Last time I vomited on the local bus. This time a driver with toll roads. Before I had a strong body and weak heart.

Today this is reversed. But I still have the greed to see what nature breeds. “Life is precious- follow traffic rules” repeats fresh green signs along the road. Life is this precious moment and fully appreciating all the ones we experience makes for a life well lived.
Now, on top of Hwang Shan (Yellow Mountain), I sit in a chair with a stone railing for a table and paint the view of where I climbed two decades ago on this steep expanse of rock. Others now hike up to the tops of the peaks while I sit down below capturing the effort needed to go up against the odds. To push up from below with strength fueled by an almost blind quest to go higher. To touch the tops of all we are. Later, all is anything but quiet on the Western front.
Eating in the Yu Ping Lo canteen, I am surrounded by loud drinking hikers and I can not hear myself write. Smoke fills my nose as I finish my tofu and eggs. But I am not fazed as I once was. I think I have changed. I see we are all the same- seeking pleasure and avoiding pain. Even while painting in a crowd today I talked and laughed with them and it was all a good game.
But sleeping in a dorm room with six strangers is not a good idea and my enthusiasm dissipated as the man next to me snored until it was time to clear his throat and watch the sunrise at 5am. I had slept not a minute and wanted to leave but little did I know my status on the mountain would soon change. A reporter from the Hwang Shan Daily had arrived to interview me. As soon as the hotel manager heard that there was a Paralympian on his watch, the first to ever climb the mountain, I was treated like royalty. A lavish lunch was spread before us as I was handed keys to the VIP suite.
Suddenly the world is upside down and that night I was between clean starched sheets with a view of the mountains to die for. The wheels of life had turned, merging Yin with Yang, and the universe was again laughing. In my suite I paint views and feelings from a new vantage point. With swallows darting in and out of the vista I stretch towards the distant finger-like peaks. These stones so slender and strong- not unlike my fingers. The hands that walk, paint and live for me resemble the stone spires that reach towards the heavens. Returning to these mountains brings me full circle. From my initial excursions as a stranger into a developing China to this place where I am treated with respect by these curious and industrious people who begin taking their baby steps towards a future world that will be determined very much by their actions. I feel fortunate to be ‘in’ with the soon to be ‘in crowd’.

Sunday, January 06, 2008

Connection Shanghai 2007
text & paintings: gregoryburns

photos: angietan, 2008 copyright all rights reserved.
The series “Connection Shanghai” concludes with a fitting scene of the Bund on a background of towering skyscrapers all painted upon a giant map of China titled, ‘No More Concessions’, drawing to a close sixty days of painting frenzy.
Stretching back to tickle memories of trips through China decades ago, I have now reconciled with myself and the country that there has been and always will be far too much more to record or express about this gigantic land. Kidding myself that I could resurrect old art created when life was far simpler and bring it into a contemporary drama only gave me a jumping-off point as I launched into a bottomless pool of culture and inspiration.

China and I changed since the 1980’s and we are no longer quaint. We have attitude and command respect for our accomplishments. Hard work and sacrifice define these changes and growth and with it comes the confidence that sets the trajectory for new dreams and destinations that were launched years ago and now proceed towards the heavens. Connecting the dots of past, present and future into art for today has been my command.

Having achieved some element of satisfaction, it is now time to let all go and move forward. Like the student upon graduation, the clearing after the typhoon, the country around which I have circulated for twenty years and I now head boldly into the future with some sense of completion. With this comes poise and hopefully a level of grace that will empower us to raise water levels so that all boats can drift free of the entangling reeds of ignorance and discontent. We must all paddle on.

Connecting Random Thots:
I see the old man with the bags searching garbage cans for plastic bottles and I realize that I am just the same as he – collecting sketches and experiences to later use and fuel my life. Not so different really.
Angie and I photograph and sketch our way back to where and when eunuchs and concubines entertained important men who gave thumbs up or down to the lives of many people.
I realize that the Great Wall psychologically and physically kept out invaders until a human being opened the gates and let them in. so in the end the wall kept nobody out forever because no matter what men make – others will compromise it out of greed.
Our date with Shanghai grows to a close for now. Having mounted this major show with extended legs of potential – I settle back into seat 37G bound for Singapore. Weary but content it is time to revisit a healthy lifestyle and breathe fresh air. I am grateful for this chance to return and to complete the circle. Half a century on this planet and over two decades in Asia, I feel blessed that I have been privileged enough to see so much. My palette brims with layers and shades of the rainbow, beaming with life and the excitement of exploration.

On canvas I funnel the hues this life has granted me and spreading wings trust that I will be able to continue on this great adventure.
Singapore 70.3 Ironman

text & paintings: gregoryburns photos: angietan, 2008 copyright all rights reserved.

A month training in Bali at the Four Seasons pool and gym may not have been an ideal regiment to satisfy the needs of a half Ironman, but it was the best I could manage at the time. Building on a maintenance base that had been holding steady for months helped, but I was not able to ride my bike or race in my chair until the morning of September 3 when the gun went off. Fortunately, the swim in the sea was painless and besides colliding with a styrofoam cooler at the half way point, the swim was uneventful and I exited the sea five minutes after the professionals who had started at the same time as the ten PC athletes.

Change channels and it was onto the bike and down the East Coast Road, my usual training ground. With none of the usual Sunday drivers to dodge, the openness greeted me like a cool wind and I peddled towards the City. Over the bridge and through the woods to the first of four loops around town I cruised. The sun hadn’t begun to scorch us and the temperature was not yet sweltering so things progressed well. Other athletes pasted me on their bikes as we all criss-crossed town. A fitting 30km per hour ride had me finishing the 90kms in just over three hours and it was time to slip into my racing wheelchair.

A bit light headed when transferring into my chair I pondered pausing. But recalling the mistake of sitting around for too long between legs of the Korea Ironman, I opted to push on immediately and let my head clear on the course. But after just two minutes I flipped over backwards while making a turn and smacked my cranium on the pavement. Fortunately, the cement and I suffered no injury and I pushed on. The course was windy and bumpy so my time suffered. But I completed the 21km distance in 1:40 which had me over the finish line in a total time of around 5:40 since I managed to miss the finishers’ shoot and over shot the ribbon on my first approach.

No sooner had I crossed the tape than the sky opened up and showered all of us with gentle rain and a reminder that the day had given us everything we needed to put in a good performance. Certainly not first, but rather somewhere near the front half of the pack, this respectable time made me consider if training in Bali at the Four Seasons should remain my game plan for future races…

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Four Seasons Sayan Bali
Joint Exhibition

text by Gregory burns
photos copyright angie tan all rights reserved


It may sound hollow, but painting in 5-star luxury is challenging. Room service brings breakfast and I leave to my studio above the raging Ayung River. The lavender palm trees rise up from the jungle floor beyond the swimming pool. The gym and restaurant are both first class. So one wonders why it took us so long to find our bearings in the No. 1 Best of The Best, CondeNast Traveler Readers' Choice Awards, October 2006. I suppose it has to do with energy and expectations. The valley spirits were here first. We must honor and respect nature in order to begin to express it in paint or film. And then our own expectations of what we think we should do get in the way of what comes naturally from living and working in this special spot. And finally it takes time to get to a place where one can stop trying to be creative and allow paintings and photos to emerge not to mention that this would be Angie and my first joint exhibit.

















Fortunately, the friendly resort staff was always there to assist us along the way. Angie focused her camera on the cultural and personal aspects of life in Ubud with all its ceremonies and festivals. She attended weddings,burials and performances seeking to catch a glimpse of what is so strong in these people that even after decades of external bombardment they still hold tight to their identity and roots. I on the other hand, choseto paint the nature and the religious imagery found in this deeply spiritual valley. So after two weeks, the river begins to flow through our work and we no longer need to struggle up stream to see what is around the next bend. All is now within us as we bounce along our journey as artists seeking to do justice to the wonder and magic that envelops Ubud and Bali.

Then suddenly I knew all was as it should be when upon moving one of my paintings in my studio I discovered that a small brown snake had made its home entangled in the painting's stretcher bars. I moved the painting close to the door and asked him to go back to nature before I returned the next day.



Communicating with nature is where and when magic and art begin to flow.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Yellowstones and Tetons
Text & paintings by: gregory burns Photos by: angie tan copyright 2007 all rights reserved
Ten days in the Yellowstone and Teton National Parks would be our first family sojourn in as many years. Our crew flew into Jackson Hole,Wyoming and drove north to the geysers of Yellowstone. Yellowstone, two million acres of parkland coined from the Native Indian’s word for the area, is the world’s oldest national park. Famous for the geyser called ‘Old Faithful’ that belches buckets of water and silica on cue, the park also offers lakes the size of countries and meadows filled with bison and elk. It is a thunderous landscape of mountains and meadows where bald eagles and osprey command the skies and feed on chipmunks and fish below.We head to the northern reaches of the park with vistas of steep gorges where emerald green streams gurgle and thunder through narrow canyons before falling over ledges and into pools hundreds of feet below.
The blond ochre and salmon peach colored embankments dotted with pine trees and topped with verdant forests offer spectacular views into thevalleys. Trails wander along the fringes of the cliffs where winds and swallows whisk up from the depths of these deep narrow passages.
We hike through forest trails, weaving our way from mighty waterfalls to tranquil lakes. Leaving Yellowstone we drive south and into the Teton Mountain range which dwarfs the pancake flat plains that butt up against the steep gray rock walls. Snow tipped peaks like knife blades carving open acobalt blue sky are peppered with lodge pole pines creeping their wayup from the valley below. Moose, elk and bear comb the forests and sip from the rushing mountain streams that feed into Jackson Lake below. We boat across the lake and climb into the hills, crossing streams searching for views of Hidden Falls and a lookout called Inspiration Point. With Angie off photographing wild moose, I descend on a path less traveled and hike through dense forest with plenty of brush and wild berries. The nearby snapping of a tree branch tells me that something bigger than a squirrel is nearby. Soon a baby black bear bounces out of the brush and bounds across the hillside above me. So as not to meet an overly protective mother who undoubtedly is nearby, I too scamper down the mountain trail.


Jackson Hole Airport departure lounge windows feature amazing views of the mighty Teton Range. Speckled with dying glaciers, the peaks jut into a baby blue sky where soon our plane will fly. Reflecting on ourreturn to back country trails, I sigh with relief from the reformatting our adventure has done to my urbanized brain. Open spaces and viewing animals in nature quenches a thirsty spirit. Time between trees reminds us that we don’t need more things to be content. Our minds quieted, we feel again the importance and wonder of our loved ones.